Perry the Platypus
Jul. 24th, 2010 10:10 pm![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
hooked_on_anime[NOTICE:] As of 27 May 2012, I have an updated, better version of this pattern posted. It can be found here. I will be leaving this version of the pattern up in case anyone likes it better. [/NOTICE]
Here it is, folks, your free Perry the Inaction Figure (crochet version) pattern! For an excellent (also free!) tutorial on crochet and amigurumi, please go here. For a look at roughly how the pattern should turn out, as well as reference while you make your own, there are images at the end of this post.
Please note that this is my first pattern, and I will have likely made many mistakes. As such, if you find them, or figure something out that makes the pattern look better to you, please feel free to let me know/do that/otherwise disregard explicit directions here. It is certainly not perfect, and I am much too lazy to actually go through and find out the number of rows required for a number of measurements, etc. Thank you, and I hope your project goes well!
Perry the Platypus (Pet Mode) Free Crochet Pattern
Shorthand:
sc = single crochet
ch = chain
dc = double crochet
st = stitch
sl st = slip stitch
Gauge: My gauge is approximately 4dc/inch(2.5cm); I used a 5mm hook to get it, but am a tight crocheter, so you may need a smaller hook.
Conversion rate: I crochet approximately 5 rows of sc for every 3 rows of dc. To calculate the number of rows you need for sc of something, multiply [# of rows of dc] x 3, then divide the product by 5. While this may not be much help in places you increase, particularly for parts that have slow increases (front legs, back legs, tail, beak parts), it can give you a final number to aim for if you're tweaking the pattern from dc to sc.
Body
Perry's body is a rectangular prism (like a stretched cube) approximately twice as long as it is high/wide. As such, you may find it easier to crochet individual squares and rectangles and sew them together, than to crochet in a "spiral" as with most amigurumi. For all sewing/non-crochet-stitching purposes in amigurumi, I use a yarn needle, and usually the "tails" of pieces of the project (cut them long).
If you choose the individual polygons method, these are the types and dimensions you will need:
* Two (2) squares, approximately 4"/10cm on a side
* EITHER (A) four (4) rectangles, 4"x8"/10cm x 20cm, OR (B) one rectangle, 8"x16"/20cm x 40cm
Stitch the squares and rectangles together to form your rectangular prism. Before closing completely, stuff.
Here's the row count version, for those who prefer that method:
1) Begin with 6 sc in a ring
2) Increase to 12 sc
3) (Sc 2, sc 1 + dc 1 + sc 1 in one stitch) four times
4) (Sc 4, sc 1 + dc 1 + sc 1 in one stitch) four times
5) (Sc 6, sc 1 + dc 1 + sc 1 in one stitch) four times
6) (Sc 8, dc 3 in one stitch) four times
7) (Sc 10, dc 3 in one stitch) four times
8) Quarter round; sc 9, sl st 3 to "finish" square
9) Fl sc (front loop single crochet) all around the square (see third part of tutorial to learn how to front loop crochet)
10) Single or double crochet rows until "box" is aprx. twice as long as it is high/wide; dc should be about 19 rows
11) Fl sc 12, skip 2; repeat three times
12) Continue in single crochets, skipping two at each corner
13) When you have only a few rows left, stuff
14) Continue sc until you close
Eyes
1) Begin with 6 sc in a ring
2) Increase to 12 sc (sc 2 in each st)
3) Increase to 18 sc (sc 2 in one st, every other st)
4) Sc 18 for three rows (sc 1 per st)
5) Finish
Add a pupil, stuff lightly, and stitch to what you have decided is the front of the body. They should be aprx 2/3 of the way up the body, on parallel edges, even with one another. Pupils should point in different directions.
Tail
1) Chain a length aprx 4.5"/11cm; chain one more to start the next row
2) Sc in each st
3) Stitch two rows, skip one stitch at the end of the next two rows
4) Repeat 3 until the tail has reached about 5"/13cm in length and/or is 4"/10cm at the smaller end
5) Finish
6) Stitch criss-cross pattern in tail
7) Sew 4"/10cm base to bottom of Perry's back (opposite end from eyes, lower end)
Hair
1) Cut three pieces of black yarn, at least 2"/5cm in length
2) Tie together at one end (single knot best)
3) Pull hairs through top/front of Perry's body (center, about 1"/2.5cm from his face) so the knot is underneath a stitch, and the hairs come out around it
4) Knot the hairs together again; trim if needed
5) OPTIONAL: coat hairs in white glue to stiffen; glue should be invisible when dry
Front Legs:
1) Begin with 6 sc in a ring
2) Increase to 12 sc
3) Continue to crochet 1 st/st until leg is aprx 2.5"/6cm long
4) Tie off
5) Take closed end, and tie tail to/through leg so it forms a fold (the "foot")
6) Stuff leg, attach to body (bottom side) within 1"/2.5cm of Perry's face
Back Legs
1) Begin with 6 sc in a ring
2) Increase to 12 sc
3) Scone in one for three rows
4) Sc 5, (Sc 2 in 1)x2, sc 5
5) Sc 6, (Sc 2 in 1)x2, sc 6
6) Sc 6, (Sc 2 in 1)x4, sc 6
7) Sc 8, (Sc 2 in 1)x2, sc 8
8) [OPTIONAL: stuff, close off at the top. Otherwise, stuff before attaching to body.] Tie off. Attach to bottom side, at the back.
Feet
1) Ch 8
2) Sc 7
3) Sc 5, ch 3
4) Sc 7
5) Sc 5, ch 3
6) Sc 7
7) Tie off; attach rounded end to bottom of back legs.
Beak (Nose)
For this piece, chain 2 to start a new row rather than 1.
1) Ch 12
2) Sc 10
3) Sc 8
4) Sc 6
5) Sc 4
6) Sc 2; tie off
7) Attach bottom (hypotenuse) of triangle to bottom of face; stuff lightly; attach sides to close.
Beak (Top)
1) Ch 13
2) Sc 12
3) Sc eight rows, or until aprx 1.75"/4.5cm long
4) Tie off
(See bottom half for attachment instructions)
Beak (Bottom)
1) Ch 11
2) Sc 10
3) Sc six rows, or until aprx 1.5"/4cm long
4) Tie off
5) Option one:
-- Attach to bottom of Nose
-- Attach Top right on top of, only to the Nose
Option two:
-- Attach back end to back end of Top
-- Attach both at the same time (closed end) to bottom of nose
Top beak should curl slightly around bottom beak's edges
TA-DAH! Your Perry the Platypus Inaction Figure (crochet version) is now complete! You may now play with him however you like :)
Once more, if you find any problems with this pattern, or have any difficulty with it, feel free to contact me, and I'll do my best to correct the problems/help you out. Happy stitching!
Here it is, folks, your free Perry the Inaction Figure (crochet version) pattern! For an excellent (also free!) tutorial on crochet and amigurumi, please go here. For a look at roughly how the pattern should turn out, as well as reference while you make your own, there are images at the end of this post.
Please note that this is my first pattern, and I will have likely made many mistakes. As such, if you find them, or figure something out that makes the pattern look better to you, please feel free to let me know/do that/otherwise disregard explicit directions here. It is certainly not perfect, and I am much too lazy to actually go through and find out the number of rows required for a number of measurements, etc. Thank you, and I hope your project goes well!
Perry the Platypus (Pet Mode) Free Crochet Pattern
Shorthand:
sc = single crochet
ch = chain
dc = double crochet
st = stitch
sl st = slip stitch
Gauge: My gauge is approximately 4dc/inch(2.5cm); I used a 5mm hook to get it, but am a tight crocheter, so you may need a smaller hook.
Conversion rate: I crochet approximately 5 rows of sc for every 3 rows of dc. To calculate the number of rows you need for sc of something, multiply [# of rows of dc] x 3, then divide the product by 5. While this may not be much help in places you increase, particularly for parts that have slow increases (front legs, back legs, tail, beak parts), it can give you a final number to aim for if you're tweaking the pattern from dc to sc.
Body
Perry's body is a rectangular prism (like a stretched cube) approximately twice as long as it is high/wide. As such, you may find it easier to crochet individual squares and rectangles and sew them together, than to crochet in a "spiral" as with most amigurumi. For all sewing/non-crochet-stitching purposes in amigurumi, I use a yarn needle, and usually the "tails" of pieces of the project (cut them long).
If you choose the individual polygons method, these are the types and dimensions you will need:
* Two (2) squares, approximately 4"/10cm on a side
* EITHER (A) four (4) rectangles, 4"x8"/10cm x 20cm, OR (B) one rectangle, 8"x16"/20cm x 40cm
Stitch the squares and rectangles together to form your rectangular prism. Before closing completely, stuff.
Here's the row count version, for those who prefer that method:
1) Begin with 6 sc in a ring
2) Increase to 12 sc
3) (Sc 2, sc 1 + dc 1 + sc 1 in one stitch) four times
4) (Sc 4, sc 1 + dc 1 + sc 1 in one stitch) four times
5) (Sc 6, sc 1 + dc 1 + sc 1 in one stitch) four times
6) (Sc 8, dc 3 in one stitch) four times
7) (Sc 10, dc 3 in one stitch) four times
8) Quarter round; sc 9, sl st 3 to "finish" square
9) Fl sc (front loop single crochet) all around the square (see third part of tutorial to learn how to front loop crochet)
10) Single or double crochet rows until "box" is aprx. twice as long as it is high/wide; dc should be about 19 rows
11) Fl sc 12, skip 2; repeat three times
12) Continue in single crochets, skipping two at each corner
13) When you have only a few rows left, stuff
14) Continue sc until you close
Eyes
1) Begin with 6 sc in a ring
2) Increase to 12 sc (sc 2 in each st)
3) Increase to 18 sc (sc 2 in one st, every other st)
4) Sc 18 for three rows (sc 1 per st)
5) Finish
Add a pupil, stuff lightly, and stitch to what you have decided is the front of the body. They should be aprx 2/3 of the way up the body, on parallel edges, even with one another. Pupils should point in different directions.
Tail
1) Chain a length aprx 4.5"/11cm; chain one more to start the next row
2) Sc in each st
3) Stitch two rows, skip one stitch at the end of the next two rows
4) Repeat 3 until the tail has reached about 5"/13cm in length and/or is 4"/10cm at the smaller end
5) Finish
6) Stitch criss-cross pattern in tail
7) Sew 4"/10cm base to bottom of Perry's back (opposite end from eyes, lower end)
Hair
1) Cut three pieces of black yarn, at least 2"/5cm in length
2) Tie together at one end (single knot best)
3) Pull hairs through top/front of Perry's body (center, about 1"/2.5cm from his face) so the knot is underneath a stitch, and the hairs come out around it
4) Knot the hairs together again; trim if needed
5) OPTIONAL: coat hairs in white glue to stiffen; glue should be invisible when dry
Front Legs:
1) Begin with 6 sc in a ring
2) Increase to 12 sc
3) Continue to crochet 1 st/st until leg is aprx 2.5"/6cm long
4) Tie off
5) Take closed end, and tie tail to/through leg so it forms a fold (the "foot")
6) Stuff leg, attach to body (bottom side) within 1"/2.5cm of Perry's face
Back Legs
1) Begin with 6 sc in a ring
2) Increase to 12 sc
3) Scone in one for three rows
4) Sc 5, (Sc 2 in 1)x2, sc 5
5) Sc 6, (Sc 2 in 1)x2, sc 6
6) Sc 6, (Sc 2 in 1)x4, sc 6
7) Sc 8, (Sc 2 in 1)x2, sc 8
8) [OPTIONAL: stuff, close off at the top. Otherwise, stuff before attaching to body.] Tie off. Attach to bottom side, at the back.
Feet
1) Ch 8
2) Sc 7
3) Sc 5, ch 3
4) Sc 7
5) Sc 5, ch 3
6) Sc 7
7) Tie off; attach rounded end to bottom of back legs.
Beak (Nose)
For this piece, chain 2 to start a new row rather than 1.
1) Ch 12
2) Sc 10
3) Sc 8
4) Sc 6
5) Sc 4
6) Sc 2; tie off
7) Attach bottom (hypotenuse) of triangle to bottom of face; stuff lightly; attach sides to close.
Beak (Top)
1) Ch 13
2) Sc 12
3) Sc eight rows, or until aprx 1.75"/4.5cm long
4) Tie off
(See bottom half for attachment instructions)
Beak (Bottom)
1) Ch 11
2) Sc 10
3) Sc six rows, or until aprx 1.5"/4cm long
4) Tie off
5) Option one:
-- Attach to bottom of Nose
-- Attach Top right on top of, only to the Nose
Option two:
-- Attach back end to back end of Top
-- Attach both at the same time (closed end) to bottom of nose
Top beak should curl slightly around bottom beak's edges
TA-DAH! Your Perry the Platypus Inaction Figure (crochet version) is now complete! You may now play with him however you like :)
Once more, if you find any problems with this pattern, or have any difficulty with it, feel free to contact me, and I'll do my best to correct the problems/help you out. Happy stitching!
Perry Pattern
Date: 2011-01-05 10:50 pm (UTC)Re: Perry Pattern
Date: 2011-01-05 11:45 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2011-03-12 08:35 pm (UTC)One thing I could suggest is to say the number of stitches that each row has - it makes it much easier to keep count!
Thanks! :>
no subject
Date: 2011-04-04 10:59 pm (UTC)Feet
Date: 2011-04-04 10:08 pm (UTC)Chain 8 then single crochet 7, do I turn? Go around? Skip stitches? I'm getting a blob :
Re: Feet
Date: 2011-04-04 10:57 pm (UTC)The feet are in rows, so yes, turn. The extra chain stitch is technically the start of the next row, I'm just rather crap at explaining that ^^;;;
I can also see about drawing or typing a diagram if you still end up having trouble.
Re: Feet
Date: 2011-04-06 09:39 pm (UTC)Thanks for your time and this pattern! My sister will love it!
<3
Re: Feet
Date: 2011-04-08 02:40 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2011-05-09 05:10 pm (UTC)When you say to skip stitches, like for instance, in the body... 11) Fl sc 12, skip 2 .... does that mean to slip stitch the two or just jump over the 2 stitches??? Wouldn't there be a hole if you just skipped over stitches??
Thanks so much for your help and for the pattern. I cant wait to get one made up for my little boy :)
no subject
Date: 2011-05-10 08:12 am (UTC)Since that's only for single crochet, though, I'll do my best to explain how to do the same with double crochet: as with single stitch, start on your next stitch before pulling the final loop of your previous one (so you have two loops on your hook prior to starting). You should end up with a single top loop between the two of them. I'll try and get pictures/explain better if that doesn't help.
I'd suggest trying both methods and figuring out which works better for you. I've found crochet to be very forgiving, and if one method doesn't give you the results you want, it's very easy to pull out those stitches and try again with a different method. If neither of these work for you, and you don't want to try the work in rows/sew it together method (which I haven't actually tried either), let me know and I'll see what I can come up with :) I've been meaning to re-work this pattern anyway.
Thanks for stopping by ^_^ I hope this clears things up and you get good results ♥ I'll do my best to help if you have any other questions, too!
no subject
Date: 2011-05-10 10:25 pm (UTC)And i'm sorry for being a pain...but just to make sure that i got it.... so when you say in the pattern to skip 2, you literally skip over the 2 next stitches? Then instead of just skipping the two stitches, i could just decrease once. I think that i get it now :)
Oh and in row 7... should i do the sc 10, dc3 into 1 stitch 3 times and then the last quarter turn, sc 9 and then sl st 3 to finish it off the square?? The pattern reads four times and then do a quarter round.... but when i did the four and then the quarter row, i end up with one side slightly bigger. I found (with a couple tries) that doing the three and then that quarter row made it more square :) But then i dont know what it is suppose to do, so i thought to ask too :)
Thanks again for all your help. I'll have to post the finished result for you! Its a surprise present for my youngest son :) Cant wait to get it finished.
no subject
Date: 2011-05-13 03:48 am (UTC)No, you do still decrease twice; for every stitch you skip or decrease, you end up with one less stitch in the next row/round. So you still need to lose two in the corners.
That actually makes a lot more sense than the way I have it written, LOL X3 Absolutely do three sides as prescribed and then the fourth side the other way, especially if it gets you better results. (I really, really need to re-work this pattern from the ground up sometime soon 6_6;;;)
I would love to see the finished results ^_^ And please feel free to ask if you have more questions. I'll do my best to answer them promptly, even if I have to go through and physically re-crochet something in order to do so.
no subject
Date: 2011-05-16 12:52 am (UTC)I'm running into issues with decreasing. When i was finished that last row before going into just sc ( the fl sc row), I ended up with 51 stitches. But when i get to the front loop stitches to start decreasing, to do the fl cs 12, skip 2 three times, that is only 48 stitches... and if i do it 4 times, it would be 56 stitches.
So yet another question... do i do the fl cs 12, sk2.. the three times and then sc the rest to finish the row?? I ended up ripping out the body until that last row before the first fl sc and even when i do the sc10, dc3 four times and then do that quarter round, i end up with only 53 stitches... not the 56. So, i'm confuzzled :D
Thanks again for everything!
no subject
Date: 2011-05-16 05:40 am (UTC)Thanks for your help!
no subject
Date: 2011-05-30 02:56 am (UTC)Perry pattern!!
Date: 2011-08-22 07:38 pm (UTC)Re: Perry pattern!!
Date: 2011-09-04 08:18 pm (UTC)Quarter Round?
Date: 2011-09-02 03:11 am (UTC)Re: Quarter Round?
Date: 2011-09-04 04:54 pm (UTC)Re: Quarter Round?
Date: 2011-09-04 08:18 pm (UTC)As to what I meant by a quarter round, I meant just one side of the square instead of all four. IIRC, it'll help even out the edges somewhat.
I hope that helps!
help please!!!!
Date: 2012-01-20 08:22 pm (UTC)Thanks!!!!
Re: help please!!!!
Date: 2012-01-21 03:16 am (UTC)I can't promise video, but I might be able to manage pictures; I'll see what I can wrangle at any rate.
perry the platypus
Date: 2012-03-15 02:50 am (UTC)love jay
Re: perry the platypus
Date: 2012-04-01 12:26 am (UTC)Thank you!
Date: 2012-05-27 07:46 am (UTC)I hope you do not mind but I have posted a link to this pattern on my blog.
http://cuteandcrazycrafts.wordpress.com/2012/05/27/perry-the-platypus-inaction-figure/
Re: Thank you!
Date: 2012-05-27 04:11 pm (UTC)This pattern is horribly out of date, and I've been meaning to correct it forever, and now I possibly can? So, uh, if you can possibly give it another hour or two before starting - or at least before making anything aside from the body - that would be great.
But thank you for pointing people over here! I am all about sharing and am 100% okay with being linked places :) Also, thank you for giving me the motivation to finally type up the updated pattern; it is, as I've said, badly needed ^^a
Re: Thank you!
Date: 2012-05-27 04:36 pm (UTC)Front legs: (make 2)
Round 1: Begin in a ring; sc 6; continue in a spiral
Round 2: Dc 12 (dc 2 in 1 all around)
Round 3: Dc 4, dc 2 in 1 x 4, dc 4
Round 4: Dc 4, dc 2 tog x 4, dc 4
Round 5: Dc 5, dc 2 in 1, dc 6
Round 6: Dc 6, dc 2 in 1, dc 6
Round 7: Dc 7, dc 2 in 1, dc 6
Round 8: Dc 7, dc 2 in 1, dc 7
Finish