Scalemate Pattern (Large)
Aug. 8th, 2011 11:35 pm![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
hooked_on_animeWhat the heck; I've got my written patterns out, I've got a clean file on OpenOffice ready, why not get the other scalemate pattern up?
For those of you who made it to AnimeIowa, this is the pattern I used for Pyralspite. I'm happy to announce that I have since found cheap squeaky toys at the dollar tree, and plan to perform surgery on Pyralspite ...eventually. Sooner or later, really.
Pics or it didn't happen? Well here's pics, so it must have happened.
The large red buttons I found at Hobby Lobby. I've been on the lookout for large four-hole buttons of other colors, but so far I haven't found any that are quite the right size. That, or they only have two holes. I mean, I could live with no ridge if I had to, but only two holes is downright ridiculous. What the heck is up with all of these two-holed buttons these days? And why am I having such a terrible time finding four-holed buttons, huh?
How frustrating!
Pattern!
What you need to know for this pattern: Crocheting in the round (spiral); single crochet (sc); double crochet (dc); increasing ([stitch] 2 in 1); decreasing ([stitch] 2 tog); slip stitch (sl st); US stitch names.
Sizing information: I used a size H/5.0mm hook and worsted weight yarn for ~3.5dc/3rows per square inch (2.5cm).
I think that's it, actually. For all the stitch arrangements are complicated, the what-you-have-to-know is reasonably straightforward.
Head
Round 1: Begin in a ring; dc 12; continue in a spiral
Round 2: dc 24 (dc 2 in 1 all around)
Round 3: dc 8, dc 2 in 1 x 3, dc 2, dc 2 in 1 x 3, dc 8 (dc 30)
Round 4: dc 8, dc 2 tog x 3, dc 2, dc 2 tog x 3, dc 8 (dc 24)
Round 5: dc 18 (dc 2, dc 2 tog)
Round 6 thru 8: dc 18 (dc all around)
Round 9: dc 21 (dc 5, dc 2 in 1)
Round 10: dc 24 (dc 6, dc 2 in 1)
Round 11: dc 30 (dc 3, dc 2 in 1)
Round 12: dc 36 (dc 4, dc 2 in 1)
Round 13: dc 42 (dc 5, dc 2 in 1)
Round 14: dc 48 (dc 6, dc 2 in 1)
Round 15 thru 21: dc 48 (dc all around)
Round 22: dc 36 (dc 2, dc 2 tog)
Round 23: dc 24 (dc 1, dc 2 tog)
Round 24: dc 12 (dc 2 tog all around)
Round 25: dc 6 (dc 2 tog all around)
Round 26: sl st 3
Fin
NOTE: A kind anon has suggested using sc between the nostrils in rounds 4 and 5 rather than dc for a better overall shape. If you're ending up with a weirdly shaped nose or nostrils that are too flat, this definitely would be worth a try.
Body
Round 1: Begin in a ring; dc 12; continue in a spiral
Round 2: dc 24 (dc 2 in 1 all around)
Round 3: dc 36 (dc 1, dc 2 in 1)
Round 4: dc 42 (dc 5, dc 2 in 1)
Round 5 thru 17 (13 rounds): dc 42
Fin
Tail
Round 1: Begin in a ring; sc 6; continue in a spiral
Round 2: dc 12 (dc 2 in 1 all around)
Round 3: dc 18 (dc 1, dc 2 in 1)
Round 4: dc 18 (dc all around)
Round 5: dc 24 (dc 2, dc 2 in 1)
Round 6, 7: dc 24 (dc all around)
Round 8: dc 30 (dc 3, dc 2 in 1)
Round 9 thru 11: dc 30 (dc all around)
Fin
Legs (make two)
Round 1: Begin in a ring; dc 12; continue in a spiral
Round 2: dc 24 (dc 2 in 1 all around)
Round 3: dc 30 (dc 3, dc 2 in 1)
Round 4, 5: dc 30 (dc all around)
Round 6: dc 9, dc 2 tog x 6, dc 9 (dc 24)
Round 7: dc 6, dc 2 tog x 6, dc 6 (dc 18)
Round 8 thru 12: dc 18 (dc all around)
Fin
Spines (lg) (make four)
Round 1: Begin in a ring; sc 6; continue in a spiral
Round 2: dc 9 (dc 1, dc 2 in 1)
Round 3: dc 12 (dc 2, dc 2 in 1)
Round 4: dc 15 (dc 3, dc 2 in 1)
Round 5: dc 18 (dc 4, dc 2 in 1)
Round 6: dc 21 (dc 5, dc 2 in 1)
Round 7: dc 24 (dc 6, dc 2 in 1)
Fin
Spines (sm) (make two)
Round 1: Begin in a ring; sc 6; continue in a spiral
Round 2: dc 9 (dc 1, dc 2 in 1)
Round 3: dc 12 (dc 2, dc 2 in 1)
Round 4: dc 15 (dc 3, dc 2 in 1)
Round 5: dc 18 (dc 4, dc 2 in 1)
Fin
Space the larger spines evenly around the crown of the head; the smaller spines should overlap over the head and the body to some degree.
I hope this makes up a bit for me taking so long to post the Small Scalemate pattern :X I really do try not to let my life get too far away from me but - well, it's an ongoing process.
Edit: 11 Nov 2011 - Made a minor change, removing the start-up sc from the body, head, and legs. If you've been having trouble with shape, this should help a bit. (24 May 2012: Round numbers have been changed to reflect this.)
Edit: 06 Dec 2011 - Added a suggestion to the bottom of the Head pattern. I'm planning to give it a try myself before making it permanent, but it seems sound to me from just looking, so if you've had trouble with the nose area, give it a look-see. Hat-tip for the suggestion to a helpful commenter :)
Edit: 10 May 2014 - Minor correction to the body. Hat tip to anonymous commenter. Thank you!
For those of you who made it to AnimeIowa, this is the pattern I used for Pyralspite. I'm happy to announce that I have since found cheap squeaky toys at the dollar tree, and plan to perform surgery on Pyralspite ...eventually. Sooner or later, really.
Pics or it didn't happen? Well here's pics, so it must have happened.
The large red buttons I found at Hobby Lobby. I've been on the lookout for large four-hole buttons of other colors, but so far I haven't found any that are quite the right size. That, or they only have two holes. I mean, I could live with no ridge if I had to, but only two holes is downright ridiculous. What the heck is up with all of these two-holed buttons these days? And why am I having such a terrible time finding four-holed buttons, huh?
How frustrating!
Pattern!
What you need to know for this pattern: Crocheting in the round (spiral); single crochet (sc); double crochet (dc); increasing ([stitch] 2 in 1); decreasing ([stitch] 2 tog); slip stitch (sl st); US stitch names.
Sizing information: I used a size H/5.0mm hook and worsted weight yarn for ~3.5dc/3rows per square inch (2.5cm).
I think that's it, actually. For all the stitch arrangements are complicated, the what-you-have-to-know is reasonably straightforward.
Head
Round 1: Begin in a ring; dc 12; continue in a spiral
Round 2: dc 24 (dc 2 in 1 all around)
Round 3: dc 8, dc 2 in 1 x 3, dc 2, dc 2 in 1 x 3, dc 8 (dc 30)
Round 4: dc 8, dc 2 tog x 3, dc 2, dc 2 tog x 3, dc 8 (dc 24)
Round 5: dc 18 (dc 2, dc 2 tog)
Round 6 thru 8: dc 18 (dc all around)
Round 9: dc 21 (dc 5, dc 2 in 1)
Round 10: dc 24 (dc 6, dc 2 in 1)
Round 11: dc 30 (dc 3, dc 2 in 1)
Round 12: dc 36 (dc 4, dc 2 in 1)
Round 13: dc 42 (dc 5, dc 2 in 1)
Round 14: dc 48 (dc 6, dc 2 in 1)
Round 15 thru 21: dc 48 (dc all around)
Round 22: dc 36 (dc 2, dc 2 tog)
Round 23: dc 24 (dc 1, dc 2 tog)
Round 24: dc 12 (dc 2 tog all around)
Round 25: dc 6 (dc 2 tog all around)
Round 26: sl st 3
Fin
NOTE: A kind anon has suggested using sc between the nostrils in rounds 4 and 5 rather than dc for a better overall shape. If you're ending up with a weirdly shaped nose or nostrils that are too flat, this definitely would be worth a try.
Body
Round 1: Begin in a ring; dc 12; continue in a spiral
Round 2: dc 24 (dc 2 in 1 all around)
Round 3: dc 36 (dc 1, dc 2 in 1)
Round 4: dc 42 (dc 5, dc 2 in 1)
Round 5 thru 17 (13 rounds): dc 42
Fin
Tail
Round 1: Begin in a ring; sc 6; continue in a spiral
Round 2: dc 12 (dc 2 in 1 all around)
Round 3: dc 18 (dc 1, dc 2 in 1)
Round 4: dc 18 (dc all around)
Round 5: dc 24 (dc 2, dc 2 in 1)
Round 6, 7: dc 24 (dc all around)
Round 8: dc 30 (dc 3, dc 2 in 1)
Round 9 thru 11: dc 30 (dc all around)
Fin
Legs (make two)
Round 1: Begin in a ring; dc 12; continue in a spiral
Round 2: dc 24 (dc 2 in 1 all around)
Round 3: dc 30 (dc 3, dc 2 in 1)
Round 4, 5: dc 30 (dc all around)
Round 6: dc 9, dc 2 tog x 6, dc 9 (dc 24)
Round 7: dc 6, dc 2 tog x 6, dc 6 (dc 18)
Round 8 thru 12: dc 18 (dc all around)
Fin
Spines (lg) (make four)
Round 1: Begin in a ring; sc 6; continue in a spiral
Round 2: dc 9 (dc 1, dc 2 in 1)
Round 3: dc 12 (dc 2, dc 2 in 1)
Round 4: dc 15 (dc 3, dc 2 in 1)
Round 5: dc 18 (dc 4, dc 2 in 1)
Round 6: dc 21 (dc 5, dc 2 in 1)
Round 7: dc 24 (dc 6, dc 2 in 1)
Fin
Spines (sm) (make two)
Round 1: Begin in a ring; sc 6; continue in a spiral
Round 2: dc 9 (dc 1, dc 2 in 1)
Round 3: dc 12 (dc 2, dc 2 in 1)
Round 4: dc 15 (dc 3, dc 2 in 1)
Round 5: dc 18 (dc 4, dc 2 in 1)
Fin
Space the larger spines evenly around the crown of the head; the smaller spines should overlap over the head and the body to some degree.
I hope this makes up a bit for me taking so long to post the Small Scalemate pattern :X I really do try not to let my life get too far away from me but - well, it's an ongoing process.
Edit: 11 Nov 2011 - Made a minor change, removing the start-up sc from the body, head, and legs. If you've been having trouble with shape, this should help a bit. (24 May 2012: Round numbers have been changed to reflect this.)
Edit: 06 Dec 2011 - Added a suggestion to the bottom of the Head pattern. I'm planning to give it a try myself before making it permanent, but it seems sound to me from just looking, so if you've had trouble with the nose area, give it a look-see. Hat-tip for the suggestion to a helpful commenter :)
Edit: 10 May 2014 - Minor correction to the body. Hat tip to anonymous commenter. Thank you!
how to end the body?
Date: 2025-02-11 03:17 pm (UTC)